Tutorial · 5 min read

The Best Fabric for Hand Embroidery (A Beginner's Guide)

Why tight, woven cotton and linen are easiest, plus how to stitch on towels, knits, satin and canvas.

The fabric you choose makes a bigger difference to your first project than almost anything else. A good fabric holds stitches neatly, stays tight in the hoop and lets you see your pattern lines clearly.

The easiest fabrics to start with

Quilting cotton is smooth, inexpensive and comes in every color. A pack of fat quarters gives you plenty for practice and small hoops.

Linen and cotton-linen blends have a lovely natural texture and look beautiful in a finished hoop. Choose a medium weight with a tight, even weave.

Both should be woven fabrics, not stretchy knits. Woven fabric stays put in the hoop, so your stitches stay even.

How to prepare fabric

  • Wash and iron the fabric first if the finished piece will ever be washed. That way it can't shrink around your stitches later.
  • Cut it at least 3–4 inches larger than your hoop on every side.
  • Iron out creases before you transfer the pattern.

Stitching on gift items

Towels: terry loops swallow small stitches. Use a water-soluble topping or stick-and-stitch stabilizer on the front and keep designs bold.

T-shirts, onesies and knits: they stretch, so add an iron-on or cut-away stabilizer to the back before hooping. Cover the back afterwards with a soft fusible backing.

Satin and silk: use fewer strands and a fine needle, and support the fabric with a light stabilizer. Perfect for bridal robes.

Canvas totes: sturdy and easy to stitch, but you'll need a needle with a sharp point. Only hoop the front layer.

What about Aida?

Aida is a stiff, grid-woven cotton made for counted cross stitch. It is wonderful for that, but not the best choice for freehand embroidery, where smooth cotton or linen works better.

Keep learning

Cover of Hand Embroidery for Beginners by Mrs. Embroidery

Free download

Learn the basics with the free Beginner Guide

18 illustrated pages: 12 essential stitches, the Spring Wreath and butterfly projects, clean tracing sheets and a printable practice tracker. Pay what you want, even $0.